Epoxy flooring is priced per square foot, and — like most flooring work — the honest answer to "what does it cost" depends heavily on the coating system and the condition of the base slab underneath it. A single self-levelling coat over a sound existing floor is cheap; a full industrial system over a slab that needs grinding and repair is a different job entirely.
What actually changes the price
- Coating system. A basic single-coat epoxy paint is the cheapest option. A self-levelling epoxy screed costs more. A full multi-layer industrial system — primer, self-level, broadcast aggregate, top coat — costs the most, but is built for forklift and heavy-trolley traffic.
- Slab condition. Epoxy is only as good as what's under it. A slab with cracks, moisture issues, old paint or a failed previous coating needs diamond grinding or shot-blasting and repair before anything is laid — this can be a bigger cost than the coating itself.
- Area and access. Larger continuous areas cost less per square foot; broken-up rooms, staircases and tight access add labour time.
- Finish and features. A plain colour top coat is cheapest. Anti-slip aggregate, decorative flake or metallic finishes, and chemical-resistant top coats all add cost.
- Use case. Residential (a spare room, a terrace) is priced differently from commercial kitchens, showrooms or industrial warehouses, which need thicker, more resilient systems.
What a fair quote looks like
A trustworthy epoxy quote is fixed, written and itemised after a site visit that actually checks the slab — not a phone-quoted per-square-foot number. It should state:
- The exact coating system (number of coats, self-level vs paint, aggregate type)
- Whether the slab needs grinding, repair or a moisture test first, and what that costs
- The finish — matte, satin or gloss — and colour
- Anti-slip aggregate if the area needs it (kitchens, ramps, wet areas)
- Cure time before the area can be walked on and put back into use
- Any warranty on adhesion and wear
Be wary of a quote that skips the site visit, doesn't mention slab prep at all, or is dramatically cheaper than everyone else's — thin, badly prepped epoxy delaminates and bubbles within months, and re-doing it costs more than doing it properly once.
New floor vs. re-coating an old one
If you already have an epoxy or resin floor that has gone dull, scratched or chalky, a full re-lay usually isn't necessary. Diamond abrading and re-coating the existing floor, or simply burnishing worn gloss back, costs a fraction of a fresh install and is the right call unless the coating has actually delaminated or lost adhesion to the slab.